Review of the Rider Guider App

by Samantha Osborne

When I was approached by Debbie and Lisa to trial and review their equestrian app, Rider Guider, I jumped at the chance! 

I first became aware of this educational platform at The Equestrian Business Awards. The small business won the ‘Tech of the Year Award’ for two consecutive years. I became fascinated by the posts shared on social media which displayed the unique and creative services the app provided customers with. 

I often ride alone and rarely have anyone to read a dressage test out for me, which makes the learning and memorising process quite stressful! I wish I had discovered Rider Guider Dressage Caller sooner, and I will certainly be recommending this hugely helpful feature to my dressage friends and associates. I began by exploring the step by step YouTube videos, which clearly explained how to use the app to gain the most from it: I then asked a friend to video me riding through an Introductory level test on my youngster. I saved the test with the movements and accessed it a few days later when practising for a competition. I connected my phone to my bluetooth earbuds and simply said, “caller, begin” to kickstart the AI reading of my test. After finishing each movement, I said, “caller, next” to listen to the next movement. Connecting instructions with a video of my horse allowed the movements to be read and performed in real time. If you forget an instruction, you can request the AI to “repeat” and when you have finished your test, you can guide the caller to “stop”. You can save up to 5 tests at a time, which is brilliant if you have multiple horses or tests to learn. This system is an equestrian life hack and must have for those who do their hobby independently. 

Furthermore, the Horse Rider Audio Lessons are a supportive and progressive means of accessing affordable and personalised training at the touch of a button. Without having to endure adverts or pause to watch a screen, the app simply talks you through a range of exercises which you can customise to meet your needs. I often go into the arena to school without a clear plan. Although I am effective and reflecting on a session, I often don’t plan ahead. By creating playlists, I have found that my schooling sessions have become a lot more focused, thorough and beneficial to both me and the horse I am riding. Not only does the speaker talk through movements, they also provide context and encourage you to focus on and evaluate things like the horse’s footfalls as you are riding. As a school teacher, I spend hours planning lessons to ensure all needs are met and the maximum learning can take place in each timetabled lesson. This app has shaped my equestrian practice to follow a similar pattern. The Rider Guider Youtube channel explains how to use this feature on the following link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDFcRlXqfnE  Should your yard have limited signal, you can download and save your training materials in advance so that you don’t need to rely on signal in areas where it is compromised. Check out ‘Disco Dressage’ for some fun! Some of my other favourite sessions trialled so far include: Hacking Out, The Hourglass, Rider Strength Exercises, and 15 Minutes Warm Up For Jumping. 

Free trials of the app are available. Following the trial, you can subscribe for a month, three months or a year, which I believe is a fantastic and flexible option and considers not only financial implications but also competition season influences. The Dressage Caller feature is priced at an affordable £9.99 a month. The Audio Guide feature can be bought for £4.99 a month, £14.99 a quarter or £49.99 a year. I currently pay £60 for a 30 minute dressage lesson whenever I can shake the piggy bank to fund it. For just over £10 less, I could purchase a whole year’s worth of training and guidance via the app as what I receive in a single 30 minute session with my dressage trainer. I was also impressed by the warm up and cool down tutorials available because these sections in a lesson are often lacking constructive and purposeful instruction. You really can make the most out of every minute of training when using Rider Guider!

Want to know more? Visit any of the links below:

Website: https://riderguider.com/ 

Instagram: @riderguider 

The post Rider Guider review appeared first on The Horse Life.

Introduction

Choosing the right horse riding school is an important decision for any rider – whether you are a beginner or an experienced rider. With so many schools to choose from, it can be difficult to know where to start.

In this article, we will provide you with everything you need to know about horse riding schools before you make your decision. We will cover the different types of schools, the cost of lessons, and what to look for in a good school. By the end of this article, you will have all the information you need to choose the right horse riding school for you.

Why take horse riding lessons?

Taking horse riding lessons is an important part of developing your skills as a rider. Lessons will teach you how to control the horse and keep yourself safe. As a beginner, you will need to learn the basics of riding such as mounting, dismounting, and how to direct the horse. Experienced riders can improve their skills and learn more advanced techniques, such as dressage or jumping. Horse riding lessons can also provide a great opportunity to socialise and meet other riders, which will only improve your riding experience.

What to consider when choosing a horse riding school

Choosing the right horse riding school for you will depend on your skill level and what you want to get out of your lessons. Beginners should look for a school that offers lessons for all skill levels, so that they can learn the basics in an environment where they feel comfortable. Experienced riders should look for a school that offers advanced lessons, and that has horses suitable for their skill level. You should also consider the cost of lessons, the qualifications of the riding instructors, and the facilities that are available.

The benefits of horse riding lessons

There are many different benefits of taking horse riding lessons. As well as improving your riding skills, horse riding can provide mental and physical health benefits. Riding a horse can help to improve your balance and posture, as well as give you an opportunity to relax and escape from everyday life. Lessons also teach you about horse care, which can help you to develop a deeper bond with your horse.

The different types of horse riding schools

There are many different types of horse riding schools, each offering something different. Schools commonly offer riding lessons for both children and adults, and there are different types of lessons available. Some schools offer dressage, show jumping, and eventing, while others offer pleasure riding, trail riding, and western riding. There is something for everyone, so it is important to find a school that offers the type of riding that you are interested in.

The cost of horse riding lessons

The cost of horse riding lessons varies depending on the type of school, the duration of the lesson, and the qualifications of the instructor. Generally, it is cheaper to take a group lesson than a private lesson, but group lessons may not be suitable for some riders. Most schools will offer a discounted rate for multiple lessons, so it can be beneficial to book multiple lessons at once.

Horse riding safety

Safety is paramount when it comes to horse riding, so you should always check the safety procedures of a school before you enrol. A good school will have policies in place to ensure the safety of riders, instructors, and horses. This might include a risk assessment of the facilities and equipment, regular safety checks, and regular safety training for instructors.

To conclude

Choosing the right horse riding school is an important decision for any rider. By considering the different types of schools, the cost of lessons, and what to look for in a good school, you will be able to make an informed decision. Most importantly, you need to find a school that offers the type of riding you are interested in and one that puts safety first. We hope that this article has given you all the information you need to choose the right horse riding school for you.

The post Everything You Need To Know About Horse Riding Schools Before You Choose One appeared first on The Horse Life.

As the colder weather approaches, we’ll all be thinking about how our horses are going to fair during the winter months. It can be tricky to keep your horse’s weight, immune system and health constant during the colder weather, especially for those who struggle to gain and maintain bodyweight, even in the warmer seasons. But the good news is that there are plenty of things you can do to ensure that your horse is ready for the temperature to drop.

Here, we’ll go through some of the essential tips for preparing your horse for winter. That way, you can start putting things in place and rest assured that you’re ready for the new season.

Plan your winter feeds

During winter, most owners may need to consider increasing their horse’s calorie intake to meet the extra energy requirements for keeping warm in the lower temperatures. This is especially true for those who don’t gain weight easily or are even prone to losing weight.

This is best done by adding extra  forage and fibre to their diet. The best way to work out how much you should add to your horse’s feed is through regular condition scoring and consult your vet or a qualified equine nutritionist. Condition scoring your horse will help you assess whether they’re at a healthy weight going into winter, and how close they are to being under or overweight. Underweight horses will need a bit more added to their diet, but you should hold back if your horse is prone to putting on the pounds.

If you’re unsure, your vet or a nutritionist will be able to help you design a feeding routine that works for your horse that will be sustainable throughout the winter months. Horses normally need to eat around 1.5-2% of their bodyweight per day, but if your horse is prone to losing weight this can be increased. It’s useful to start planning your feeding routine now, so that you have plenty of time to tweak it and allow time to get extra hay or other supplies delivered.

Check water sources

It’s always important that horses stay hydrated  but during winter, this can be a problem because many water sources that your horse usually drinks from can become frozen. Even if the water doesn’t freeze, if it gets extremely cold then many horses won’t drink it as it feels uncomfortable.

So, at the start of the season you should conduct a check of your water sources to ensure that your horse always has access to drinking water at a reasonable temperature. If you can’t readily heat these areas, pick spots where it will be convenient for you to carry fresh drinking water to each day. Any water sources that your horse doesn’t need direct access to — such as a the tap you use to fill up buckets — can be covered at night to prevent freezing.

For outside water troughs, you can try filling a plastic water bottle with water, adding some salt, and then floating it on the top to prevent or limit freezing – a tennis ball can also work. Water buckets should also be placed within tyres to help insulate them against the cold and lower the temperature of the water slightly. Plus, this will also help prevent them from being accidentally kicked over in the stable. 

Decide how to clip your horse

In winter, horses grow a longer coat to help protect themselves from the harsher weather. While this thicker coat is practical for an unridden horse who lives out all year round, if a horse who’s in regular work sweats up a lot under saddle, it may be time for a clip to prevent him from catching a chill, and to help make grooming easier. So, if you’re planning to ride in winter, you should consider how you’re going to clip your horse’s coat.

If your horse will be working fairly hard over winter, then it might be beneficial to partially or wholly clip them, then make up for the lost warmth with a cosy rug when they’re resting. However, if your horse is older or will be resting a lot over the winter months, it’s much better to leave their winter coat unclipped.

You should also start thinking about what kind of rugs your horse will need during the season. For many horses, their own unclipped winter coat will be enough to keep them warm during turnout, but if you are expecting lots of wind, rain and snow they might need some extra help, especially to keep them from getting soaked. Clipped horses will need a thicker rug to compensate for their shorter coat.

Do a shelter check

While you should always be providing shelter for your horses throughout the year, it’s particularly important in winter. During the summer, a shelter’s function is mainly to provide shade for your horses, so you might not have noticed the odd leak in the roof or unsteady plank in the wall. But with the onset of winter weather, these shelters will need to remain dry and windproof. So, conduct a thorough check of any shelters and make sure that everything is sturdy and ready for the coming season. Repair any gaps or leaks now so you’ll be much better prepared once the weather turns. Remember that the run-in shelter should also be big enough for all the horses in the pasture to use at once, as it’s highly likely they will all want to come inside and watch the rain from their cosy corner!

You should also check any other areas that your horse might use for shelter to make sure they’re safe, too. Many horses will shelter under trees and against hay bale blocks, so it’s worth checking that there are no unsteady branches or anything else liable to cause trouble.

Shoe your horse for winter

The ground can be highly changeable during winter and can go from damp and boggy to frozen solid in a matter of days. To make it as easy as possible for your horse’s feet to adjust to the ground, it’s useful to decide on what kind of winter shoeing (or not) to go for. It’s best to consult your farrier to decide what will be best for your horse, but it will depend on a number of factors: the type of ground conditions your horse will be working on, how much work they’ll be doing and the condition of their feet.

Many people choose to only shoe their horse’s front feet during winter if their workload will be reduced, but each horse is different and if you’re going to be riding on the road regularly throughout the colder months, you might also want to consider  asking your farrier for road nails. These add extra grip to help provide some extra security for your four-legged friend when the ground is icy.

Preparing your horse for winter involves many different factors, but by using these tips you’ll set yourself and your four-legged friend up to be healthy, happy and comfortable in the colder months.

Article by Katie Allen-Clarke, Head of Marketing at Horse & Country

The post Top tips for preparing horses for the darker and colder weather appeared first on The Horse Life.

To pre-empt the forecast for much warmer weather I have added some information on designing horseboxes to cope with heat and a few pointers for horsebox ventilation in hot weather.

Designing primarily around horse safety and comfort, we dedicated many hours to the issues of heat build-up. There is without question plenty of research already out there on the effects of prolonged exposure at high temperatures and how it causes heat stress, heat stroke, dehydration, muscle spasms and colic. These are all avoidable issues if addressed as part of the overall ventilation design.

Heat and colour

From previous research and development, roof colour has to be white to reflect heat. Dark colours absorb heat, so avoiding a dark finsh is essential.

Head room

I cannot understate the importance of head room as part of any good ventilation strategy. It is a crucial aspect of any horsebox design. As heat rises, the hottest part of the horse area is always going to be nearest the ceiling. For our part we use 8’ up to 8’ 6” headroom. Not only does this make horseboxes suitable for the largest of horses, it keeps the hottest air high up above the horses head height, where ventilation systems can easily remove it.

Windows and air flow

Glass and especially colour play an important part again and tinted glass is preferable. It reduces direct sunlight that adds extra heat to the horse area, so tinted glass is good as long as it remains clear enough for the horses to see out. Widows are basically the starting place for good air flow and heat removal. Window size plays an important part in the cooling effect of air drawn over the horses. A good design will see one large horse window for each horses head and smaller higher windows at the tail. This window size difference is crucial as it allows air flowing past a moving horsebox to cause a greater vacuum on the larger windows than the smaller ones. This vacuum effect draws air into the horsebox through the small windows, across the horses and out of the larger head windows. However, it is worth noting that if both windows were the same size, air pressure would be equal both sides of the horsebox and little to no air would move inside the horse area. This effect is mostly for a moving horsebox with all the windows open. For a stationary horsebox very little air moves across the horses apart from that caused by wind. It is also noteworthy that for hot or stale air to leave the horse area, fresh clean air must have a way in. For example, closed tail end windows would stop air flowing in and being drawn over the horses, so no cooling effect would be present.

Roof vents and air flow

Let’s start with a hot horse area and a stationary horsebox. The hottest air is at the ceiling and cooler air low down. Opening a roof vent fully will allow hot air to flow up and out causing cooler air to flow in through the windows. A clever trick here and one we use in our own horsebox design maximises this effect by allowing much cooler air to flow in at floor height.

For a moving horsebox with a hot horse area things get more complicated still. Opening the roof vent and windows fully will remove some hot air, however, there is a way to move much more hot air out by tilting the vent. Actually opening fully the rear most part of the vent and closing the cab end of the vent fully will cause a considerable vacuum effect as air passes over the horsebox roof and tilted vent. At speed this vacuum effect will be considerable and as long as the windows are open the cooling effect will also be considerably increased, even removing more hot air more than an extraction fan!

Intake and extraction fans

These can be even more complicated depending on the size of horse area and the amount fitted. For a moving horsebox fans actually remove less air than a tilted roof vent. Where fans really shine, is parked or stationary traffic and even ferry or tunnel crossings where little air flow is possible. For small horseboxes with open windows probably one extraction fan is all that is necessary. For larger horseboxes intake and extraction fans are fitted and this negates the need for open windows. Remember fans use considerable power and if the engine is not running they can soon flatten batteries.

Air conditioning

This is the most controllable option and one we use for our largest HGV horseboxes. These only work as long as every window and vent is closed. They work by drawing fresh air in and cooling it to a set constant temperature for the horse area. These are a very good option but expensive and power hungry.

Lazy air

Muddying the water further and adding another level of complication to cooling is the fact that air is extremely lazy and this applies to all the options above with the exeption of AC. Now you have to bear in mind that your goal is to remove hot air and draw cooler air across your hot horses. I will use an extraction fan as an example here.

So, you are loaded with horses, all the windows are open and you turn on the fan to keep them cool. However, you have forgotten Mr Lazy air, he cannot be bothered to travel all the way across your horses and cool them, his far easier option is to take a direct route from the nearest open window straight to the extraction fan. Hot air will still be removed, but the cooling effect on your horses will be much reduced.
Now you have some trial and error ahead of you to get this working properly. Starting by partly closing the nearest windows to the fan, you should be able to even out air flow from each window so air has to travel over your horse to reach the exit fan.
For testing we did all this with a smoke machine and it was still surprisingly difficult, but very enlightening.

There you go, complicated but something to think on and I hope it helps.

The post Horsebox Ventilation appeared first on The Horse Life.

I believe in allowing young horses to have time to mature and socialise in a herd before starting to break them for ridden work. 

As a child, I learned a useful tip from a lady working at a local Highland pony stud and I use it to start all horses I break in now. She used a lunge whip as an extension for her arm to feel all over the ponies. I have found that with horses that haven’t had much handling, it is an effective way to get them used to being touched all over and it saves accidents if they strike out at first to the new feeling.  

As soon as they accept a head collar and are mannerly to lead around in the yard and arena, I begin bitting. I start off with a bit with keys and a basic cavesson noseband. I start off with the bit low so that they don’t object to having their ears folded forward. As soon as the bridle is over their ears, I gently raise the bit. I don’t like to leave them unattended in tack in case there is an accident. I know that some people stand them for hours in tack but I prefer to do little and often so that it doesn’t cause stress.  

I use a roller and side reins before a racing exercise saddle and by the end of breaking them in I make sure they are happy in a standard saddle. I think increasing the weight of what is on their back in stages helps extreme reactions like cat-leaping and bucking. I take care not to over tighten the girth but make sure it is secure enough so that tack doesn’t slip and scare them.  

A competent and calm ground person is key to getting the foundations right. I don’t like to see horses being grabbed tight. I think if you react and give the impression that something may go wrong, they tend to pre-act to this interaction. I use lots of positive reinforcement like verbal praise and neck scratches so that they learn to trust and enjoy the work. You can never do enough long-reining to make their mouth but I think lunging she be kept to a minimum if they are younger – especially canter work as it is too hard on their joints. I don’t think it does any harm to lean over them and be led around as the mouth is being made. I always lean over in the stable for a few days before sitting up on them. Each horse is an individual and I analyse their body language to make sure they are not anxious so that they can progress to the next stage. I also do lots of mounting block training at this stage so that they learn how to be mannerly at a mounting block as well as for a ‘leg up’.  

As soon as the horse is confident with going forward, halting and changing direction on the long reins using the ropes and voice for aids, I start to lean over and sit up on them in the arena. If they don’t look back at me or put their back up, I begin halt, walk and trot work on the lead or lunge to build on what they already know. If they remain confident and responsive to the aids, I ask the ground person to unclip me and I ride independently. I keep sessions very short as they are weak and I don’t want to cause discomfort and mental fatigue.  

It is vital to hack out more than going in the school as going around in circles in boring and teaches them to become less responsive to the leg. I always take a ‘bomb-proof’ lead horse so that the breaker gains confidence in traffic and when facing new obstacles for the first time like white road markings, cyclists and signposts. On the roads, it is easier to send them forward in straight lines. I always keep one hand on the neck strap so that I don’t pull on the mouth should they spook or do an emergency stop! I always do the first canter outside too as I think it is easier for them to canter in a straight line rather than in a tighter arena. Once the aid is recognised, I start to build on the canter education in the school.  

Until they balance themselves and gain trust, I think it is helpful to stick with the same rider in the early stages of riding away; however, show horses are ridden by different riders as part of their education and so once they have grasped the basics, the horse can learn to work with a range of experienced jockeys.  

I think it is vital to give breakers a rest after the initial breaking in process to let them reflect on what they have learned and mature physically. When backing them 6 months down the line, I think it is good practice to start them with long reining and recapping the basics again. I tend to have their teeth checked and a physio check them before progressing with their ridden work again. I alter tack to suit the individual at this stage but recommend sticking with a snaffle bridle and keeping an eye on the fit of the saddle as they change shape with work.  

Samantha Osborne Biog

Samantha Osborne is an amateur, home produced rider who works full time as an English teacher but also works freelance in the equestrian media industry as a writer and a micro influencer. Samantha has experience producing horses to HOYS standard in the show ring but in recent years she has focused on chasing her dreams in the world of British Showjumping. She embraces a rounded equestrian life and has gained years of experience as a panel judge, has completed an Equine Science Behavioural Level 5 course, and often teaches or breaks in horses in her spare time.

Samantha’s motto is ‘Horse first, sport second’.

Instagram – @samanthaosborneequestrian

Website – Samantha Osborne Equestrian

Brand Ambassador for The Horse Life

The post Breaking in horses for the show ring appeared first on The Horse Life.

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Choosing the Site

If you are short of land you won’t have much choice as to where the arena is built. If you are lucky enough to have a choice there are a variety of factors that should be considered. Some obvious, some not!

Access

The majority of people fail to consider the implications of poor access on arena construction. Poor access means suppliers cannot use large delivery vehicles thus dramatically increasing haulage costs as more trips with smaller vehicles have to be made.

Poor access also means the contractor hired to build the arena has to use smaller machinery meaning the job takes longer and costs more. Positioning a Riding Arena to allow for good access can reduce costs by up to 30% so it requires serious consideration!

If the conclusion of a site survey shows access is poor all is not lost!

Drainage

Probably the most important aspect of arena construction is the drainage. Without good drainage you cannot have an ‘all weather’ surface.

When positioning the arena you need to consider where water collected in the drainage system will be discharged to e.g. ditch, soak-away, pond etc

It is recommended that you seek advice from your local authority at this stage to ensure discharge into nearby watercourses is permitted.

Levels

Excavation of a site needs serious consideration and should be kept to a minimum. An uneven site will require a lot more excavation than a level site, so take this into account.

More excavation means more spoil to dispose of, a process which can be very costly.

Sloping land may require levelling by a process known as cut and fill. This basically means sub-soil is excavated from the higher side of the site and deposited on the low side to create a level surface.

Exposure

With some Silica Sand based surfaces wind erosion becomes an issue. Silica Sand is very much like egg timer sand when dry and thus is prone blowing away.

It is therefore advisable that arenas are not placed in exposed areas to avoid potential loss of your surface to the elements.

In some cases this is unavoidable and may require further measures to be taken such as hedge and tree planting to create a wind break.

Construction Stage 1 – Marking Out and Excavation

So you’ve chosen the site, and assuming it’s fairly level now is the time to get the site set out ready for initial excavations. No matter how big your arena is going to be it is good practice to mark out a slightly bigger area than the finished arena. A minimum of 1 metre working room should be allowed for around the outside if the excavation. Therefore if your arena is going to be 40 x 20m you will need to excavate an area that is 42 x 22m to allow sufficient working room. Typically the 4 corners of the excavation will be marked out with strong wooden pegs. A string line is then run from peg to peg allowing special marking spray paint to be used to mark out the perimeter of the dig. Once the 4 pegs are in place it is important to check that all is square. To do this you will need to measure the diagonals. If the diagonals are the same measurement you have marked out square.

The first stage of the excavation is to remove the topsoil to reveal firm subsoil. You must never build on topsoil as the organic matter contained within means topsoil is prone to waterlogging and has very poor load bearing ability. The depth of the topsoil will vary from with some sites having just an inch of topsoil and others having up to a foot!

The topsoil should be removed and neatly stockpiled or disposed of through an approved contractor. It will always be cheaper to try and use the topsoil in the final landscaping of the site rather than to remove it, although sometimes you may be lucky enough to sell it! Make sure your excavator driver seals the heap of topsoil by compacting and smearing the top and sides of the stockpile to keep it dry. This will keep the topsoil dry and friable making the final landscaping job much easier.

Construction Stage 2 – Drainage

Easily the most important factor of any arena build is good drainage. If drainage is poor it doesn’t matter how much you spend on the surface it will not work! A typical drainage pattern is known as a ‘Herringbone Pattern’. This basically means a 4-6inch (100-150mm) central collector pipe (or spine) runs down the centre of the arena.

Spurs consisting of 75-100mm perforated pipe are then run at 45 degree angles into the spine. The spurs should be spaced at 5m apart. The central spine is discharged into a soak-away, ditch, pond etc. The depth of the drainage channels will be determined by the depth of the discharge point. The drainage trenches should be kept fairly shallow whilst still allowing a suitable fall in order to keep the cost of the backfill down.

Construction Stage 3 – Lower Membrane (Woven)

The drainage channels should now have been dug ready for the lower membrane to be installed. A Woven Geotextile Membrane (G90) which is very similar to the material used in large dumpy bags supplied by builders merchants should be used to cover the entire excavation.

In an ideal world the membrane should also line the drainage channels to prevent the drainage system from blocking with silt and clay from the surrounding sub-soil. Any joins/seams in the membrane should be sealed with a tough cloth tape. The membrane should now be laid leaving the lined drainage trenches ready to receive the perforated pipework.

With the pipework now connected the drainage channels should be backfilled to original excavation level with a clean washed 20mm Gravel. It is essential that the gravel used is clean to prevent blocking the perforations in the drainage pipe.

Construction Stage 4 – Sub-Base and Fencing

With the drainage trenches backfilled the site should now be level again. It is now time to install the sub-base which should be a minimum of 4 inches (100mm) in depth but ideally 6 inches (150mm). The choice of sub-base material will largely depend on the area you live in as the availability of materials will vary according to the local geology.

In an ideal world a crushed rock should be used as it will be free from any impurities sometimes found in recycled materials, although in some areas there are very good recycled materials available. The sub-base forms the ‘foundations’ of an arena and is also very important to the drainage system. The sub-base layer will provide temporary water storage in the event of a heavy downpour thus keeping the upper surface free from waterlogging and also relieving pressure on the drainage system. Due to the water storage requirement it is essential that a clean angular material is used in a 75-40mm size.

The most common materials used are Limestone, Recycled Rail Ballast, Granite and Crushed Concrete. The 75-40mm size range ensures the material compacts whilst remaining free draining. All materials should be free from dust/fines to prevent blockage of the drainage system. The sub-base material chosen will need to be levelled using an excavator and laser level and compacted in layers using a vibrating roller. A good excavator operator should be able to compact and level the sub-base to within +/- 5mm accuracy.

With the sub-base levelled and compacted the fencing can now be installed. Generally a 3 bar post and rail system should be used with the rails attached to the insides of the posts. This prevents potential injury to the horse and rider when riding close to the fence line.

Gravel boards should be attached to the bottom of the posts as these will contain the upper surface when added. It is preferred that posts are installed using a ‘Post Knocker’ which is a tool which will mechanically hammer the posts through the sub-base and into the subsoil below.

Construction Stage 5 – Upper Membrane (Non-Woven)

The installation of an upper membrane is critical to the performance of a riding arena. We recommend a Non-Woven Geotextile (NW8) which is best described as being similar to the fleece gardeners use to protect plants from frost only much thicker. Extreme care must be taken when installing this membrane as any gaps in the joins or holes will allow the upper surface to works its way through and eventually lift the membrane.

The number one cause of any membrane rising to the surface is poor installation. At this stage the upper membrane should be treated like a pond liner with the eventual aim of creating a watertight container. This means securing the membrane to the gravel boards to ‘contain’ the surface and also ensuring all joins and overlaps are secured with our Cloth Tape.

Silica Sand surfaces are notorious for being very fine and free flowing and thus any holes in the membrane will allow the sand to migrate downwards and thus lift the membrane. The upper membrane performs 4 main tasks:

1. Prevent stone from the sub-base from rising to surface
2. Prevent the final surface from migrating downwards and blocking the sub-base
3. To grip the final surface ensuring when pressure is applied by the horses hooves no shear movement occurs.
4. To rip if the horses hooves come into contact with the membrane thus preventing tripping and possible injury. (9 times out of 10 this happens if the surface is not maintained properly)

Construction Stage 6 – Surface Installation

With the upper membrane installed you can now add the final surface. The choice of surface is usually affected by budget and personal experience. A lot of people base their choice of surface on what they have ridden before and recommendation from friends. For the purposes of this guide we will assume you have chosen the most popular and versatile Silica Sand and Arena Flex Rubber Chip surface. The Silica Sand will be the first material to arrive with enough ordered to give a depth of 4 inches (100mm).

It is crucial that no vehicles/machinery are allowed to drive on the upper membrane as any damage to the membrane will cause problems down the line. With this in mind it is good practice to tip the first load of Silica Sand in the gateway then use an excavator to level out the heap to create a temporary road into the arena. This will mean the truck with the next delivery of sand will be able to reverse over the sand rather than the membrane.

The Silica Sand should be installed in 2 x 50mm layers ensuring each layer is levelled using a laser level for accuracy and compacted using a vibrating roller. It may be necessary to roll the sand with the vibrate function off in the first instance to prevent the roller from burying itself. If the sand is particularly wet it is not recommended that vibration is used. Conversely if the sand is too dry it will need to be dampened to achieve adequate compaction.

Once the Silica Sand is compacted the Arena Flex Rubber Chip can be laid at 50mm (2 inch) depth to complete the surface.

This blog post was written by Scott Chambers from Mainland Aggregates Ltd

www.mainlandaggregates.co.uk

The post Riding Arena Construction Guide appeared first on The Horse Life.

So, you want to be the next Charlotte Dujardin?

Here are my 6 top tips for remembering your dressage test.

I have found the best results need patience and a good sense of humour too!

This is a very effective way of making you look like a complete nut case! But I have found it to be very effective. The best way to do this is take the ‘Dance like no one is watching’ approach and pretend you are riding but do the test on foot. I mean walk, trot and canter on your own two feet as if you are your horse. Practical Horseman Mag suggest this way is particularly good for kids!   This also is a good way to repeat the movements of the test without your clever pony getting bored or thinking they know a better way. It can be done in the actual arena or any made up arena in your lounge/ car park/ office etc.

2. Drawing your test on paper or on a white board. 

Dressage4All suggest another personal favourite of mine. Just draw out an arena with the markers in the correct place on a washable white board or a piece of paper and draw the route of your test on the sheet. This method works best if you have practiced the test and are familiar with it already. You can get as detailed as you want and use different colours for each gait or keep it simple. Just imagine that you are doing the test and draw it on the paper. I found this method very helpful as it is easy to repeat over and over again.

3. Listening to your test being called.

Another method which could be helpful is calling your own test out and recording it on your phone. You can then replay it to yourself when you are riding it or repeat it whenever you want to revise the test. Alternatively Equivisions offer a service that plays all dressage tests from intro to advanced medium at 3 different speeds as MP3 downloads.

4. Watching others do your test online or in real life.

This one maybe controversial. People seem to have differing views on whether it is helpful to watch others do their test. However the FEI have recommended it as a good way for you to visualise what your test looks like when it is ridden.

5. Dressage Today suggest reciting the test for a friend so he/she can follow your instructions to see if you can remember it properly.

If he/she can do the test with you reciting it – well done! If they can’t you need to memorize it better!

6. Use an app.

Of course there is an app for EVERYTHING. There are many dressage apps that incorporate the above techniques to help you learn your tests. The British Dressage app Testpro British Dressage is free. There are other ones to purchase available such as Equi Sketch Dressage and FEI Equi Tests to name a few.

I hope that my top tips will be useful and give you some new ideas to help you memorise your tests. 

Author: Louise Dando

https://www.induehorse.com

The post 6 Top Tips for Remembering your Dressage Test appeared first on The Horse Life.